Sunday, August 18, 2013

Dia de Murrupula 2013

Gotta look your best for Dia de Murrupula!
This little boy was just too cute is his
a-little-too-big-for-him suit.
In the US we have county and city fairs complete with crazy fried foods, cheap carnival rides, games, and performances. In Mozambique, every town has one day a year where they celebrate their founding.  This August 17th, Murrupula celebrated its 54th year , decorating the town’s main street with green and yellow painted banners stating “Viva Murrupula”, “Viva a Educação” and “Murrupula combate a pobreza pelo progresso da sociedade!” 

Like every holiday, the day begins with a parade into town along the main road, people clapping and singing, students holding banners representing their school, the “chefes” and administrators leading the way to the town’s roundabout where everyone gathers for the more formal ceremony of laying flowers on the independence plaque.  Then everyone heads to the nearby stage painted in the red, yellow, green and black coloring of the Mozambican flag where they watch performances by local cultural groups. 
Kids climbing in the trees to get
a good view of the stage

Differing from other holidays, Dia de Murrupula is a much grander celebration.  People came from neighboring cities and even neighboring provinces to celebrate.  And this year was an even more exciting celebration; the country’s famous television program Concerto em Moçambique would be filming here!  Students, teachers, and administrators had excitedly been talking about this event for months, much to my ignorant ears of the importance of the appearance of this artist or that singer I had never heard of.  However, during the celebrations of the day, it quickly became apparent how special this event was for my little village.
Me, Adrienne, Merina
and Esperanca

Adrienne and I went out in the morning to watch the dancing, cheering on some of our musically inclined students and ignoring stares from visitors who were not used to seeing two white girls walking around town.  A man with surprisingly good English told us how welcome we were and how happy he was we were here.  We brushed him off, ignoring him and thinking ‘ugh, another crazy guy trying to speak English with us’. Later, when he appeared on stage and the crowd cheered excitedly, we quickly learned that he was a famous Mozambican Mecua singer, haha ooops. 


At some point in the afternoon, there were bicycle and sack races (still not entirely sure where or when this actually happened), and hundreds of people gathered in the field in the 20-30 newly constructed make-shift barracas (bars) set up just for this special day.  After Adrienne complemented a well-dressed woman, “chique” as we call it, with her colorful capulana attire and face decorated with paint made from a local plant, she graciously offered to paint our faces.  Adrienne and I both agreed, minus the carnival rides and games, this was exactly like an American fair.


Getting my face painted by this nice woman
But the true highlight of the day was to come in the evening, the big espectáculo everyone had been talking about.  Scheduled to start at 4pm, we headed over to the field around 5:30pm (we have learned to adjust for “African time”) to where they had constructed a big stage with lots of speakers stacked 6-7 feet high.  There were well over 1,000 people there, all clearly having been celebrating the entire day.  We chose to stand on the periphery of the crowd and an American woman approached us.  Turns out she, along with her Mozambican husband, runs an orphanage in Nampula city and strangely enough, some of her family is from Fullerton, a city about 10 minutes away from my hometown.  Small world! 

We stayed until about 8pm (our usual bedtime), enjoying chatting with our new American friend, dancing with children and watching the crowds excitement.  We decided it was time to go when the power went out for the second time and a drunk teenager ran by with a flaming aerosol can. 

Despite a couple power outages, the performances continued throughout the entire night, the cheers and bass audible even from our house located 5-10 minutes away from the field.  The town is a little slower this morning, but we were still woken up early to our neighbor’s music blasting, a signal that Sunday the party continues!  
I know you're not supposed to have
favorites, but these two are definitely
my favorites - Fatiminha and Merina

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